There is a particular silence on a Maldivian island at six in the morning. The water is flat, the sky is pale and the only sound is the reef breaking far away.

I had come with a reading list, a running plan and three podcasts to catch up on. I finished none of them.

A houseboat gliding through the Kerala backwaters at dawn
A houseboat gliding through the Kerala backwaters at dawn

The tide keeps time

Instead, I snorkelled from the villa steps, watched a turtle graze on sea grass for twenty minutes and ate lunch with my feet in the sand.

By day three, I had stopped looking at my phone. By day four, I had forgotten where it was.

A marine biologist on the island told me that coral grows about a centimetre a year. It felt like a sensible pace for a holiday too.

Turquoise water and white sand in the Maldives, seen from above
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Portrait of Nora Lindqvist
Nora LindqvistEditor at large

Plans journeys for Elsewhere and writes about the places that stay with them.