On the first morning, nothing happened. Thousands of wildebeest gathered on the bank, stared at the water and then wandered away.

Our guide, Joseph, just smiled and poured coffee. He has watched more than two hundred crossings. He knows they cannot be rushed.

Desert dunes at dusk with the Dubai skyline on the horizon
Desert dunes at dusk with the Dubai skyline on the horizon

The waiting game

On the third afternoon, one animal jumped. Then ten. Then the whole bank poured into the river in a roar of dust and water.

Safari teaches you that the best things come to those who are willing to sit still.

It lasted twenty minutes. Nobody in the vehicle spoke for the hour after.

That is why we stay in one camp for several nights on migration journeys. You need time for the moment to find you.

Giraffes crossing the Serengeti beside an acacia tree
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Portrait of Kwame Asante
Kwame AsanteHead of Africa journeys

Plans journeys for Elsewhere and writes about the places that stay with them.